Mostly sugar with little substance, as it has fun elements that don't seem to be entirely thought through. However, there are some good lines and messages in here as well. You can see some attempts at early feminism (the men are exhausted by having to take on "feminine" tasks of taking care of the home and the children, etc, proving that being a homemaker is hard work that goes underappreciated, for instance), but overall it is very much a product of the sexist culture of its time. But surprise! There's also a trans storyline (ish) that, while I wouldn't write it the same way today, is still shockingly progressive for 1904!