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A review by daumari
Endangered Eating: America's Vanishing Foods by Sarah Lohman
adventurous
hopeful
informative
medium-paced
4.75
I really enjoyed this! It's been a while since I read her debut book, Eight Flavors but in Endangered Eating, Sarah takes a more hands on approach and travels seeking out eight (technically nine) American entries from Slow Food International's Ark of Taste list for foodstuffs that are endangered, whether due to the cultivar literally being rare/hardly grown (such as some cider apple varieties and the Carolina ground peanuts) or practices that are in decline except for a few passionate individuals (reefnet salmon fishing by indigenous people on the Salish Sea, fresh grinding filé powder from sassafras leaves).
A (probably intentional) undercurrent to many of the ones featured in the book are foods and practices by indigenous nations that were then discouraged by the government for forced assimilation and/or eliminating competitors to predominantly white agriculture (Hawaiian sugarcane, Navajo-Churro sheep, the aforementioned reefnets and manoomin wild rice. I'm pleased to see I've read half the references mentioned for the Carolina African Runner peanuts (I'm writing this on my phone so I can't do the book link insert, but they're Southern Provisions by David S. Shields on recovering the Carolina Rice Kitchen and Carolina Gold rice, and The Cooking Gene by Michael Twitty- both are excellent blends of history, memoir, and food). The other theme of some of these is incompatibility with modern monoculture practices for bigger, hardier, faster- the variety of dates in the Coachella Valley (an interesting case where farmers intentionally leaned into Orientalism to sell dates but a growing immigrant population may help demand), the cider apple varieties, and the Carolina runner peanuts fall into this one.
I'll definitely keep an eye out for Lummi salmon and other regional treasures in my area...
A (probably intentional) undercurrent to many of the ones featured in the book are foods and practices by indigenous nations that were then discouraged by the government for forced assimilation and/or eliminating competitors to predominantly white agriculture (Hawaiian sugarcane, Navajo-Churro sheep, the aforementioned reefnets and manoomin wild rice. I'm pleased to see I've read half the references mentioned for the Carolina African Runner peanuts (I'm writing this on my phone so I can't do the book link insert, but they're Southern Provisions by David S. Shields on recovering the Carolina Rice Kitchen and Carolina Gold rice, and The Cooking Gene by Michael Twitty- both are excellent blends of history, memoir, and food). The other theme of some of these is incompatibility with modern monoculture practices for bigger, hardier, faster- the variety of dates in the Coachella Valley (an interesting case where farmers intentionally leaned into Orientalism to sell dates but a growing immigrant population may help demand), the cider apple varieties, and the Carolina runner peanuts fall into this one.
I'll definitely keep an eye out for Lummi salmon and other regional treasures in my area...